Surfing Senegal: Waves, Culture, and a Few Sea Urchin Encounters
Getting There: The Dakar Arrival Experience
Our adventure kicked off with a flight from Madrid Barajas to Dakar’s Blaise Diagne International Airport. Pro tip: pack your patience for passport control—the lines can be endless and the pace is, well, unhurried. Once you’re through, the real journey begins.
We had arranged a transfer to Ngor Island, but even that was an odyssey. A quick stop at a gas station for food turned into a lesson in local hustle—requests for dinner money or cash are common, and while it’s tough, it’s best to stay firm or you’ll end up being taken advantage of. It’s a reality of the area: there’s real need, but boundaries are important.
Ngor Island: The Heart of Senegalese Surf
Arriving at Ngor Beach, we hopped on a boat to Ngor Island, where we’d be staying at the Ngor Island Surf Camp. The island is legendary for its two main waves, each with its own personality and best tide.
Ngor Right: This is Senegal’s most famous wave, featured in the iconic 1966 surf film The Endless Summer. It’s a long, powerful right that works best on a mid-tide push. But here’s the catch: Senegal’s surf is mostly over rock, and the reefs are covered in sea urchins. Many surfers wear booties, but the urchin spines can still get through. Caution is your best friend.
Ngor Left: Another beautiful wave, this one essentially splits the island in two and offers its own unique ride.
The surf camp staff are excellent at giving you the forecast each evening and, if the waves aren’t working on Ngor, they’ll load you into a Land Rover and head to mainland spots like Secrets (there is a restaurant in front literally called secret spot), Vivier, or Ouakam. These are fantastic but rely on specific swells. Virage is more beginner-friendly, but honestly, Senegal isn’t the ideal destination for learning to surf—shallow water, powerful waves, and those ever-present urchins mean you need some experience before paddling out.
When we visited in October and November, the water was warm—almost hot! Still, bring a rash guard or something light for sun protection, because the sun here is absolutely brutal.
One of the best surprises of surfing in Senegal was the vibe in the water. Crowds are light—most sessions feel uncrowded compared to Europe or the Americas. The local surfers are genuinely friendly, especially if you show respect and a positive attitude. If you paddle out with good energy, you’ll often find that locals will even let you take waves where they technically have priority—a rare treat in the world of surf travel.
And make no mistake: the Senegalese surfers absolutely rip. They’re skilled, creative, and comfortable pulling off maneuvers like airs on even the trickiest sections. What’s really impressive is their resourcefulness—they surf with whatever boards and gear they can get their hands on, and it doesn’t slow them down one bit. It’s common for visiting surfers to gift their boards to locals before heading home, which only adds to the sense of community and stoke in the lineup.
Life on the Island: Food, Vibes, and Art
Meals on Ngor Island are simple and repetitive: the staples are yassa poulet (chicken with rice) and yassa poisson (fish with rice). We eventually switched things up with pizza, just for variety! The local currency is the West African CFA franc.
Strolling around the island, you’ll find small galleries with local art and music. The bay side offers peaceful white sand beaches—perfect for swimming, relaxing, or grabbing lunch. Nightlife is low-key: think barbecues and music at the surf camp, or a quiet drink on the beach. But if you want more action, Dakar’s just a five-minute boat ride away, where you can catch live music in true Senegalese style. We ended up at a basement rock concert—wildly fun, but remember to adapt and respect local customs if you want to stay out of trouble and have fun.
Culture and Exploring Beyond the Waves
Senegal has a population just under 17 million, with French as the official language and Wolof widely spoken. The country is predominantly Muslim, with a small Christian minority. The climate is tropical—hot and humid—with a rainy season from July to October and a dry season dominated by the hot harmattan wind from November to June.
When the surf’s flat, Dakar is worth exploring. The city’s markets are sprawling and colorful, though not everything is as local as it seems (watch out for the “made in Thailand” souvenirs). For a deeper dive into history, take the ferry to Gorée Island. This UNESCO site was a departure point for enslaved Africans sent to the Americas—a sobering but essential visit. The island itself is vibrant and beautiful, with places to eat and swim, and even the locals go there for day trips. And, yes, capitalism is everywhere—there’s even a house linked to George Soros on the island.
Book recommendations from our trip that we could read on our guest house: AFRO Surf, Leroy Grannis, Women Making Waves, Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life (a classic), and Operation Playboy by Kathryn Bonella.
Final Thoughts: Waves, Culture, and Survival Tips
Senegal was intense—amazing waves, rich culture, and plenty of challenges. We came back physically wrecked: sunburned after 6-7 hours a day in the water, and four out of five of us had run-ins with sea urchins. The only remedy? Needle, tweezers, and a lot of patience to dig out the spines before they get infected (some of us were still removing them 2 weeks after returning to our home country). Sunscreen is a must, and only drink water from trusted sources or you’ll definitely get sick.
All in all, it was a wild ride—challenging, beautiful, and unforgettable. If you’re up for real adventure and good surfing, Senegal delivers.